Here are the Essential Instructions for the Leonie Pants pattern. These are perfect if you prefer a quicker guide without detailed illustrations or lengthy explanations.
If you are following along on your phone or tablet, we recommend disabling your screen timeout so your device doesn't lock while you are mid-step. You can find instructions on how to do it at these links: Apple devices and Android devices. Just don't forget to switch it back before your phone stays awake forever.
Also, if you're on a computer or tablet, the Table of Contents is hanging out over on the right. Super helpful if you're the type who likes to jump around, or just skip straight to the waistband part. On a phone? Sorry, no fancy sidebar for you.
SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 3/8" (1 CM) UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED
DRAWSTRING OPENING
If skipping the drawstring, go to Step 3.
1. On each front leg, mark the drawstring openings on the right and wrong sides. Fuse interfacing over the drawstring opening markings on the wrong side.
2. From the right side, sew a 1/2” (1.3 cm) buttonhole on each leg at the markings. Cut them open.
POCKETS
Repeat the steps for each side. / To sew the skirt without pockets, skip to Step 7.
3. Right sides together, pin pocket to front leg's side edge, matching notches. Sew from notch to notch.
4. Clip seam allowance at notches. Finish this seam allowance. Press pocket away from front leg and understitch.
5. Right sides together, place second pocket over attached pocket. Sew around the inner and lower pocket edges.
6. Turn assembled pocket to wrong side of front leg. Press. Baste pocket to front leg.
ASSEMBLE PANT BODY
7. Sew the front crotch seam. Press toward the left (as worn) leg. Sew the back crotch seam. Press toward the right (as worn) leg.
8. Sew the inseams, matching crotch seams and knee notches. Press toward the back leg.
9. Sew side seams. Press toward the back leg
10. If sewing pockets, sew a bar tack at the top and bottom of each pocket opening from the right side.
WAISTBAND
9. Cut 1" (2.5 cm) wide elastic to the length for your size, or wrap it around your waist and add 1" (2.5 cm) for overlap
12. Overlap the elastic by 1/2" (1.3 cm) and join into a loop. Mark the quarters. Match quarter marks to center front, back and side seams. Attach 1/4" (0.6 cm) from raw edge.
13. Press elastic up and away from the pants. Turn elastic to wrong side twice to fully enclose it and form the waistband. Pin in place and edgestitch the lower folded edge.
14. Remove the pocket basting stitches.
DRAWSTRING
If using a pre-made drawstring, go to Step 20. If skipping the drawstring, go to Step 21.
15. Place the drawstring ends right sides together at 90 degrees. Join with a diagonal seam. Trim and press seam allowance open.
16. Press the drawstring in half lengthwise, then press the long raw edges to the center and refold.
17. At each short end, open the drawstring so one long edge stays folded and the other lies flat. Fold short raw edge 1/4” (0.6 cm) to the wrong side.
18. Refold along the center crease, then turn the open long raw edge back in, tucking the short end inside.
19. Pin the rest of the drawstring. Edgestitch around all edges.
20. Thread the drawstring through the waistband casing. Secure at the center back with a vertical line of stitches.
HEM
21. Try on the pants and check the length. Clip into the side seam and inseam seam allowances at the finished hem fold. Press hem seam allowances toward the front leg.
22. Turn the hem 1/2” (1.3 cm) to the wrong side. Turn another 2 1/2” (6.4 cm) and press. Edgestitch.