Here are the Essential Instructions for the Leonie Pants pattern. These are perfect if you prefer a quicker guide without detailed illustrations or lengthy explanations.
If you are following along on your phone or tablet, we recommend disabling your screen timeout so your device doesn't lock while you are mid-step. You can find instructions on how to do it at these links: Apple devices and Android devices. Just don't forget to switch it back before your phone stays awake forever.
Also, if you're on a computer or tablet, the Table of Contents is hanging out over on the right. Super helpful if you're the type who likes to jump around, or just skip straight to the waistband part. On a phone? Sorry, no fancy sidebar for you.
SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE 3/8" (1 CM) UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED
DRAWSTRING OPENING
If skipping the drawstring, go to Step 3.
1. On one skirt piece, mark the drawstring openings on the right and wrong sides. This is the front skirt.
2. Fuse interfacing over the drawstring opening markings on the wrong side. From the right side, sew two 1/2” (1.3 cm) buttonholes at the markings. Cut them open.
POCKETS
Repeat the steps for each side. / To sew the skirt without pockets, skip to Step 7.
3. Right sides together, pin pocket to front skirt’s side edge, matching notches. Sew from notch to notch at 1/2” (1.3 cm).
4. Clip seam allowance at notches. Finish this seam allowance. Press the pocket away from the front skirt and understitch.
5. Right sides together, place the second pocket over the attached pocket, matching raw edges. Sew around the inner and lower pocket edges at 1/2” (1.3 cm).
6. Turn the assembled pocket to the wrong side of the skirt front and press. Baste pocket to skirt along the top edge and partway down the side edge.
SIDE SEAMS
7. Right sides together, sew skirt side seams at 1/2” (1.3 cm). Press toward the back.
8. If sewing pockets, sew a bar tack at the top and bottom of each pocket opening from the right side.
WAISTBAND
9. Cut 1" (2.5 cm) wide elastic to the length for your size, or wrap it around your waist and add 1" (2.5 cm) for overlap
10. Overlap the elastic by 1/2" (1.3 cm) and join into a loop. Mark the quarters. Match quarter marks to center front and back notches and side seams. Attach 1/4" (0.6 cm) from the raw edge.
11. Press the elastic up and away from the skirt body. Turn the elastic to the wrong side twice to fully enclose it and form the waistband. Pin in place and edgestitch the lower folded edge.
12. Remove the pocket basting stitches.
DRAWSTRING
If using a pre-made drawstring, go to Step 18. If skipping the drawstring, go to Step 19.
13. Place the drawstring ends right sides together at 90 degrees. Join with a diagonal seam. Trim and press seam allowance open.
14. Press the drawstring in half lengthwise, then press the long raw edges to the center and refold.
15. At each short end, open the drawstring so one long edge stays folded and the other lies flat. Fold short raw edge 1/4” (0.6 cm) to the wrong side.
16. Refold along the center crease, then turn the open long raw edge back in, tucking the short end inside.
17. Pin the rest of the drawstring. Edgestitch around all edges.
18. Thread the drawstring through the waistband casing. Secure at the center back with a vertical line of stitches.
HEM
19. Turn the hem 1/2" (1.3 cm) to the wrong side. Turn another 2 1/2" (6.4 cm) and press. Edgestitch.