In this post I will show you how to draft an all in one facing for you Orla Dress. This will work for any garment but since July is an Orla month, I will be showing you how to add a Facing to Orla. Just like with
pockets drafting tutorial, I will be back with a sewing tutorial in a couple days.
Orla dress instructions show you how to finish the neckline using bias binding, which is a great method of finishing a garment. However, some times you may need to use a less visible method or finishing a neckline. Especially if you are using a pretty fabric that you just don't want to disrupt with extra stitching lines.
I will show you how to draft a facing that will not only finish your neckline, but also your armholes should you wish to make a sleeveless Orla. I also like to use this facing even if I am adding sleeves to my dress since this facing will not flip up as it is secured in the armhole seam.
Tools needed
- Paper, any paper you use for tracing patterns. I use medical paper.
- Pencil
- Eraser
- Ruler
- French Curve (not necessary, but makes things easier)
To draft facings you will need both Front and Back Bodice pattern pieces. As usual, draw your seam allowances into the pattern pieces (Orla seam allowances are 3/8" or 1 cm) to mark where the actual stitching line is. We will start off with Front Facing.
Front Facing
Mark point
1 on the Centre Front line, 4” down from the neckline.
Mark point
2, 1/4” above the bust dart.
Mark point
3 on the side seam, 3” down from the armhole.
Using French Curve connect points 1-2 and 2-3 with a curved line.
Trace your Facing piece onto a fresh sheet of paper and mark Fold Line. Add seam allowances to all seams. You can skip the bottom edge if you are planning to edge finish it with a serger or zig zag, or use bias binding to finish it. The facing in the photo above is finished with a bias binding. I love the pop of colour against the black fabric!
Front Facing is done! The steps for the back facing are almost identical.
Back Facing
Mark point
1 on centre back seam 6 3/4” down from the neckline
Mark point
2, 1/4” above the back dart
Mark point
3 on the side seam, 3” down from the armhole.
Using French Curve connect point 1-2 and 2-3 with a curved line. Trace the Back Facing piece onto a fresh sheet of paper, mark grain line and add seam allowances. As with the Front Facing, you can skip adding seam allowances to the bottom edge.
I hope this tutorial helps you figure out how to add facings, not only to Orla Dress, but any garment that you think needs them. If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments or reach out via email.
Tomorrow I will be back with a sleeveless dress pattern hack, that has both facings and pockets, and on Sunday I will provide detailed sewing instructions for the hack, facings and pockets. In the mean time, check out how to
draft inseam pockets for your Orla.
Love,
Anya
