Bust Dart Rotation Tutorial - An Orla Affair

I am back today with a few more posts including this quick tutorial on how to rotate bust darts on your Orla dress, or any other dress or bodice pattern for that matter. I am doing this to get the pattern ready for shift dress hack, but you may just prefer different darts or something... I don't know, but knowing this definitely comes in handy when pattern hacking. I will only be rotating bust darts so front bodice is the only pattern piece I will need. The new bust dart is shown in a red line in the image below. The print of the fabric is so busy and it is hard to see the dart otherwise. Make sure you draw your seam allowances in as it is important to do all your pattern modifications from the actual stitching lines. Seam allowances on Orla are 3/8" or 1cm.

Tools needed

  • Paper – you can use freezer paper, medical paper or any other paper you use for tracing patterns
  • Pencil
  • Eraser
  • Ruler
  • Tape
Mark 2" down from the armscye on the side seam. Draw a line through the mark to the tip of the dart. Cut the dart completely out and cut the line you just drew to the tip of the dart but not through it. If you did cut through the dart like I did, that's okay, we will be taping everything down eventually. Bring the legs of the original dart together and tape them closed. As you do that, a new dart will open up on the side seam, right where you cut through the line you drew. Put a piece of paper under your new dart and tape dart legs down. Extend the top part of the side seam to the middle of the new dart. Draw a line connecting the bottom dart leg with the side seam line ups just drew. That's it! Now you will need to trace your new bodice piece to a new piece of paper. Ensure the new dart legs are the same length. Also you may need to slightly true your new waist seam so that it doesn't have any sharp angles. Add your seam allowances back in. Ensure your have your cutting guidelines and notches, marked on the pattern. Label it and that's it! You will need to complete this step in order to hack your Orla into a Shift Dress, the steps for which can be found here. I hope it helps and let me know if you have any questions. Love, Anya
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